What Does Azelaic Acid Do?

What does azelaic acid do? The Ultimate Guide to This Skincare Powerhouse

Introduction

In the ever-evolving world of skincare, few ingredients manage to stand out as true game-changers. Azelaic acid is one such powerhouse that has gained significant attention for its wide range of benefits. But what exactly does azelaic acid do? This blog delves deep into the properties, benefits, and uses of azelaic acid, making it your ultimate guide to incorporating this remarkable ingredient into your skincare routine.

What is azelaic acid?

Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid found in grains such as wheat, barley, and rye. It’s also produced by yeast that lives on normal skin. Unlike many other acids used in skincare, azelaic acid is not an alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) or beta-hydroxy acid (BHA); it belongs entirely to a different category, which makes it a unique and versatile ingredient.

This multifunctional acid has been widely studied and is recognized for its anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and keratolytic properties. It’s available in both over-the-counter and prescription-strength formulations, making it accessible for various skin types and concerns.

How does azelaic acid work?

Azelaic acid works in multiple ways, making it a versatile addition to any skincare routine. Here’s how it performs its magic:

Antimicrobial Action: Azelaic acid is known for its ability to target and reduce the growth of bacteria on the skin, particularly Propionibacterium acnes (P. acnes), which is responsible for acne. By inhibiting bacterial growth, azelaic acid helps reduce acne and prevent future breakouts.

Anti-Inflammatory Properties: Azelaic acid has anti-inflammatory effects, which can help soothe redness, swelling, and irritation. This makes it particularly effective for conditions like rosacea, where inflammation is a significant issue.

Keratolytic Effects: This acid promotes the turnover of skin cells by gently exfoliating the top layer of the skin. It helps to unclog pores, reduce the formation of comedones (blackheads and whiteheads), and improve overall skin texture.

    Inhibition of Melanin Production: Azelaic acid has the ability to inhibit tyrosinase, an enzyme involved in the production of melanin. This helps to lighten hyperpigmentation, such as dark spots, melasma, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH).

Regulation of Skin Cell Production: Azelaic acid helps normalize the growth of keratinocytes, the cells that produce keratin, a key protein in the skin. By regulating these cells, azelaic acid can prevent the thickening of the skin, which often leads to clogged pores and acne.

Benefits of Azelaic Acid

Azelaic acid offers a plethora of benefits that make it a valuable ingredient for various skin concerns. Here’s a closer look at some of the key benefits:

Treats acne: Azelaic acid is particularly effective in treating mild to moderate acne. Its antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties work together to reduce acne lesions, clear existing breakouts, and prevent new ones from forming. It’s gentle enough to be used alongside other acne treatments like benzoyl peroxide and retinoids.

Reduces Hyperpigmentation: One of the standout benefits of azelaic acid is its ability to fade dark spots and hyperpigmentation. Whether you’re dealing with sun spots, melasma, or PIH, azelaic acid can help to lighten these areas over time, leading to a more even skin tone.

Improves Rosacea Symptoms: Rosacea is a chronic skin condition characterized by redness, swelling, and visible blood vessels. Azelaic acid’s anti-inflammatory properties make it an effective treatment for reducing the redness and swelling associated with rosacea. It’s also well-tolerated by most people with sensitive skin.

Smooths Skin Texture: Regular use of azelaic acid can lead to smoother skin by promoting cell turnover and unclogging pores. This helps to reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and rough patches, giving your skin a more youthful and radiant look.

Safe for All Skin Types: Unlike some other acids, azelaic acid is generally well-tolerated by all skin types, including sensitive skin. It’s less likely to cause irritation, making it a great option for those who find stronger acids like glycolic acid or salicylic acid too harsh.

Anti-Aging Effects: While azelaic acid is not traditionally marketed as an anti-aging ingredient, its ability to promote cell turnover and reduce hyperpigmentation can contribute to a more youthful appearance over time.

How to Use Azelaic Acid in Your Skincare Routine

Incorporating azelaic acid into your skincare routine is relatively straightforward, but there are a few things to keep in mind to maximize its benefits:

Choose the Right Concentration: Azelaic acid is available in different concentrations, ranging from 10% to 20%. Over-the-counter products typically contain 10% azelaic acid, while prescription products may contain 15% to 20%. If you’re new to azelaic acid, it’s best to start with a lower concentration and gradually work your way up.

Application Frequency: Azelaic acid can be used once or twice daily, depending on your skin’s tolerance. Start with once daily, preferably in the evening, and if your skin tolerates it well, you can increase to twice daily.

Layering with Other Products: Azelaic acid can be layered with other skincare products, but it’s essential to do so carefully. It pairs well with ingredients like niacinamide and hyaluronic acid. However, avoid using it with strong acids (like AHAs or BHAs) or retinoids simultaneously, as this can increase the risk of irritation.

Sun Protection: Like many other skincare acids, azelaic acid can make your skin more sensitive to the sun. Always apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30 during the day when using azelaic acid.

Be patient. As with any skincare treatment, results from azelaic acid take time. It may take several weeks to months to see significant improvements in your skin. Consistency is key, so stick with it and give it time to work.

Potential Side Effects of Azelaic Acid

Azelaic acid is generally well-tolerated, but like any skincare ingredient, it can cause side effects in some individuals. Common side effects include:

Mild Irritation: Some people may experience mild irritation, redness, or peeling when they first start using azelaic acid. This is usually temporary and can be minimized by starting with a lower concentration and gradually increasing usage.

Dryness: Azelaic acid can cause dryness, particularly if used in conjunction with other drying ingredients like benzoyl peroxide. Ensure you’re using a good moisturizer to keep your skin hydrated.

Allergic Reactions: Although rare, some individuals may have an allergic reaction to azelaic acid. If you experience severe itching, swelling, or difficulty breathing, discontinue use and seek medical attention.

Who Should Use Azelaic Acid?

Azelaic acid is a versatile ingredient that can benefit a wide range of skin types and concerns. Here’s who should consider using it:

Acne-Prone Skin: If you struggle with acne, azelaic acid can be a game-changer. It’s effective against both inflammatory and non-inflammatory acne and is gentle enough for most skin types.

Hyperpigmentation: Those dealing with dark spots, melasma, or PIH will find azelaic acid beneficial for lightening and evening out skin tone.

Rosacea: If you have rosacea, azelaic acid can help reduce redness and inflammation without causing further irritation.

Sensitive Skin: Azelaic acid is one of the few acids that’s safe for sensitive skin. It’s less likely to cause irritation compared to other active ingredients.

Aging Skin: While not primarily an anti-aging ingredient, azelaic acid’s ability to improve skin texture and tone makes it a great addition to an anti-aging routine.

How to Choose the Right Azelaic Acid Product

When selecting an azelaic acid product, consider the following factors:

Formulation: Azelaic acid is available in various formulations, including gels, creams, and foams. Choose one that suits your skin type. For example, gels are typically better for oily skin, while creams may be more suitable for dry skin.

Concentration: Over-the-counter products usually contain 10% azelaic acid, while prescription products may contain 15% to 20%. If you’re new to azelaic acid, start with a lower concentration and see how your skin responds.

Other Ingredients: Look for products that contain complementary ingredients like niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, or ceramides to enhance the benefits of azelaic acid and reduce the risk of irritation.

Brand Reputation: Choose products from reputable brands known for their quality and effectiveness. Read reviews and consult with a dermatologist if you’re unsure which product is best for you.

Popular Azelaic Acid Products on the Market

Here are some popular azelaic acid products that have received positive reviews:

The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension: 

10% This affordable option is a great starting point for those new to azelaic acid. It’s lightweight, easy to apply, and well-tolerated by most skin types.

Paula’s Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster: 

This product combines azelaic acid with other skin-loving ingredients like licorice extract and salicylic acid to target multiple skin concerns.

Finacea Gel 15%: 

Available by prescription, this gel contains 15% azelaic acid and is often recommended for treating rosacea and moderate acne.

Naturium Azelaic Topical Acid 10%: 

This product combines azelaic acid with niacinamide and vitamin C, making it a multitasking option for brightening and clarifying the skin.

DIY Azelaic Acid Skincare Recipes

While it’s always best to use professionally formulated products, some skincare enthusiasts like to experiment with DIY options. Here are a few simple recipes using azelaic acid powder:

Azelaic Acid Serum:

Ingredients: 1 gram of azelaic acid powder, 9 grams of distilled water, and a pinch of hyaluronic acid powder.
Instructions: Dissolve the azelaic acid powder in distilled water, add the hyaluronic acid powder, and mix well. Store in a dark glass bottle and apply as a serum.

Azelaic Acid Moisturizer:

Ingredients: 1 gram of azelaic acid powder, 9 grams of your favorite moisturizer.
Instructions: Mix the azelaic acid powder with your moisturizer until fully dissolved. Apply it as part of your skincare routine.

Azelaic Acid Spot Treatment:

Ingredients: 1 gram of azelaic acid powder, 9 grams of aloe vera gel.
Instructions: Mix the azelaic acid powder with aloe vera gel and apply directly to the affected areas.

Note: DIY formulations can be tricky, and there’s a risk of incorrect concentrations and contamination. It’s always safer to use professionally formulated products, especially when dealing with active ingredients like azelaic acid.

Conclusion

Azelaic acid is a remarkable ingredient that offers a wide range of benefits for various skin concerns, from acne and hyperpigmentation to rosacea and aging skin. Its gentle yet effective nature makes it suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin. Whether you’re a skincare novice or a seasoned enthusiast, incorporating azelaic acid into your routine can help you achieve clearer, brighter, and more even-toned skin.

Remember, consistency is key when using azelaic acid. Start with a lower concentration, build up gradually, and always pair it with sun protection during the day. With patience and regular use, azelaic acid can transform your skin and help you achieve the complexion you’ve always desired.

References:

Dermatology literature on the efficacy and safety of azelaic acid.
Reviews and insights from dermatologists and skincare experts.
Product recommendations based on user reviews and dermatologist advice.

By understanding what azelaic acid does and how it can benefit your skin, you’re better equipped to make informed decisions about your skincare routine. Whether you’re looking to clear up acne, fade dark spots, or soothe rosacea, azelaic acid might just be the ingredient you’ve been searching for.